Pre-Listing Handyman Punch List

The St. Louis spring real estate market is in full swing, and if you’re planning to put your house on the market this summer, you’ve got about four to six weekends to do something most sellers don’t bother with: fix the small stuff before the buyer’s inspector finds it.

I get hired to do these pre-listing punch lists every spring. The pattern is always the same. The seller spends $1,500 to $4,000 on a long list of small repairs in May, and the buyer’s inspection in July comes back clean. The deal closes on time, no re-negotiation, no surprise credits.

The seller next door, who didn’t bother, watches their buyer come back with a $12,000 repair credit demand off the back of a 30-page inspection report — and either pays it, walks the deal, or accepts a price reduction.

Here’s the punch list I work from. Two solid weekends and a few hundred bucks in materials handles most of it.

Why This Matters: How Inspections Affect Your Sale Price

Before we get into the list, let’s establish the why.

The American Society of Home Inspectors and the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors are the two largest trade bodies for residential inspectors. Both publish standards of practice that govern what inspectors look for and how they report findings.

Inspectors aren’t trying to kill your deal. They’re trying to document the condition of the house for a buyer who’s about to spend several hundred thousand dollars. But the inspection report becomes a negotiating document — and every flagged item is a potential price reduction request.

The National Association of Realtors tracks reasons that real estate transactions fall apart. Inspection issues consistently rank as one of the top three causes of failed contracts, alongside financing and appraisal problems. And even when deals don’t fall apart, post-inspection re-negotiation is the rule, not the exception, in the current market.

The math is simple: $2,000 in pre-listing repairs prevents $5,000 to $15,000 in post-inspection credit demands. There is no other home improvement project that returns this kind of ROI.

The Pre-Listing Punch List

I organize this by what the inspector will physically look at, in order. That’s the same order I work in.

Exterior: First Impression and First Stop

The inspector starts outside. So does the buyer. So should you.

Fascia, soffit, and trim

Walk the perimeter of the house. Look at the trim under the roof line.
Anything peeling, rotted, or showing soft spots needs repair before listing.
A handyman can replace a section of fascia for $150 to $400. Painting touch-up is included.
This is the #1 cosmetic-but-easy item I see flagged.

Caulk on every exterior penetration

Window frames, door frames, hose bibs, dryer vents, electrical penetrations, AC line set entries.
Cracked, missing, or peeling caulk reads as “deferred maintenance” to an inspector.
One tube of quality polyurethane caulk: $8. Time to recaulk a typical house: 3-4 hours.

Grading and downspouts

Soil should slope away from the foundation at minimum 6 inches over the first 10 feet (per the International Residential Code).
Every downspout should discharge water at least 4 feet from the foundation.
Where the grading is flat or sloped backward, add soil. Where downspouts dump short, add extensions.
See our gutter overflow guide for the full diagnostic.

Decks and railings

Tighten any loose railing posts. Inspectors specifically test rail strength.
Replace any rotted boards or any board with deep cracks.
Reseal or restain if the wood is graying. The USDA Forest Products Laboratory confirms pigmented stain dramatically outperforms clear sealer for UV protection in our climate.
See our full deck assessment guide.

Concrete and walkways

Trip hazards are a liability flag. Sidewalk slabs that have heaved or settled by more than half an inch should be ground or mudjacked.
Wide cracks in driveways and walkways should be filled with crack sealer.

Roof and Gutters: The Big-Ticket Eye Test

Roofs scare buyers. Roof issues kill deals.

Hire a pre-listing roof inspection

Cost: $150 to $300 in the St. Louis market.
Get it from a roofer, not the same one you’d hire for the work — independent assessment.
The National Roofing Contractors Association recommends inspections in spring and fall.
A clean roof report in your seller’s disclosure packet is worth far more than the inspection fee.

Address obvious issues:

Missing or curling shingles
Damaged or missing flashing around chimneys, vents, and roof penetrations
Loose or detached gutter sections
Tree limbs touching or hanging over the roof — get them trimmed back at least 10 feet.

Check the attic

Stains on the underside of the roof decking indicate past or current leaks. Address them.
Ventilation should be clear — no insulation blocking soffit vents.
The U.S. Department of Energy recommends R-38 to R-60 attic insulation for our climate zone. If you can see the joists, top it off — typically $1,500 to $2,500 for a blown-cellulose top-up on an average attic.

Plumbing: Where Big Surprises Hide

Test every fixture

Run hot and cold water at every sink, tub, shower, and outdoor faucet.
Watch for leaks at supply connections, drain connections, and shut-off valves.
Inspectors look under every sink. So should you.

Toilet inspection

Sit on every toilet and rock side to side. If it moves, the wax seal is failing — replace it. $20 in materials, 30 minutes of work.
Check the supply line and shut-off valve for corrosion or moisture.
Look at the floor around the base for staining — a sign of past or current leakage.

Water heater

Verify the temperature/pressure relief valve has a discharge tube extending to within 6 inches of the floor (code requirement).
Check the date code. If the unit is over 10 years old, expect this to come up in negotiation. The International Association of Certified Home Inspectors cites typical lifespan at 8 to 12 years for tank units.
Flush the tank if you haven’t recently. We covered the procedure in our home maintenance guide.

Look at the main shutoff and exposed pipes

Visible corrosion, mineral buildup, or moisture at joints flags a problem.
Galvanized supply lines (silver-colored, threaded) in older homes are nearing end of life and will be flagged as a future-replacement item.
See our plumbing services page for what’s worth doing now versus disclosing.

Electrical: The Inspector’s Magnifying Glass

Electrical findings are among the most common — and the most easily fixed in advance.

Cover plates

Every outlet and switch needs an intact cover plate.
Replace cracked, missing, or painted-shut plates. $1 each at any hardware store.

Test every outlet

A $15 outlet tester (National Electrical Code compatible) shows wiring faults instantly.
Common findings: reversed polarity (hot and neutral swapped), open ground, GFCI not functioning.
Reversed polarity is a 5-minute fix per outlet. Open ground on an older two-wire system is a disclosure item, not necessarily a defect.

GFCI protection

Current code requires GFCI protection in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, basements, outdoors, and within 6 feet of a sink.
If your house lacks GFCI protection in any of these locations, install GFCI outlets at the first device on each circuit. About $25 per device, 20 minutes per install.

Smoke and CO detectors

The National Fire Protection Association requires smoke detectors on every level, in every bedroom, and outside every sleeping area.
CO detectors required on every level if you have any fuel-burning appliance or attached garage.
Replace any unit older than 10 years (smoke) or 5-7 years (CO) — check the manufacture date on the back of each unit.

Panel inspection

Open the panel cover. Look for double-tapped breakers (two wires on one terminal), missing knockouts, signs of overheating.
These are common findings that should be addressed by a licensed electrician — typically $200 to $500 for a panel cleanup.
Federal Pacific and Zinsco panels are flagged as fire hazards by every inspector. If you have one, plan for the disclosure or pay for a panel replacement (~$2,500-$4,000) before listing. The Consumer Product Safety Commission has documented the failure history.

HVAC: Service Records Tell a Story

Get a pre-listing tune-up

$150 to $250 in the St. Louis market.
Get a written report and put it in your disclosure packet.
A buyer who sees recent service is reassured. A buyer who sees a system with no documented service assumes the worst.

Filter, condensate drain, outdoor unit

Fresh filter at listing time.
Clear condensate drain — clogged drains are a top inspection finding in summer.
Clear all vegetation at least 2 feet from the outdoor condenser unit.

Interior: Cosmetic With Inspector Implications

Drywall

Patch any holes from removed shelves, picture hooks, or doorknob impacts.
Address obvious stains on ceilings — these scream “active leak” to a buyer even if the leak is long-fixed and dry.
Touch up paint where patches are visible.

Doors and windows

Every interior door should latch and close cleanly.
Every window should open, close, and lock.
Stuck windows that won’t open are a code issue (egress) for bedrooms.
Replace any cracked window glass.

Floors

Squeaks aren’t a defect but they’re a buyer turn-off. Many can be silenced with a few well-placed screws into the joist below.
Address obvious scratches in hardwood with a touch-up kit.
Replace any heavily damaged tile, vinyl, or carpet sections.

Smoke smells, pet smells, kitchen smells

Inspectors don’t comment on smell. Buyers do — and they remember it.
Wash walls, replace HVAC filter, deep-clean carpets, address any sources before showings.

Basement and Crawl Space: The Skeleton Closet

This is the area buyers (and inspectors) examine most carefully because it’s where structural and moisture issues live.

Moisture

Address any visible water stains, efflorescence (white mineral deposits), or active dampness.
A dehumidifier running during showings keeps relative humidity under 50% and prevents the musty smell that triggers buyer concern.
The EPA’s mold guidance is the standard reference for what’s considered a moisture problem.

Visible plumbing and electrical

Make sure exposed runs look organized and intact.
Insulate any exposed water lines on exterior walls to prevent the future-callback complaint.

Structural visibility

Move stored items away from the foundation walls so the inspector can see everything.
Document anything that’s been previously repaired (foundation crack injection, sump pump installation, etc.) and have receipts ready.

Sump pump

Test it. Pour 5 gallons of water in the pit and verify it runs.
A non-functional sump pump in St. Louis is an automatic credit request given our spring rainfall pattern (per NWS St. Louis climate data).

Crawl Space (If You Have One)

Vapor barrier should be intact and cover the entire ground surface.
Insulation between joists should be in place, not falling down.
No standing water, no visible mold, no obvious pest damage.
If you haven’t been down there in a year, the Department of Energy’s crawl space moisture guidance is worth reading before you list.

The Disclosure Documents

Missouri is a “buyer beware” state with mandatory disclosure of known defects. The Missouri Real Estate Commission provides the Seller’s Disclosure Statement that’s used in nearly every transaction.

A few things sellers consistently get wrong:

Don’t conceal known issues to avoid disclosure. The legal liability for material non-disclosure follows you for years and can result in lawsuit, rescission, or both. Disclose what you know and let the price reflect it.

Don’t over-disclose speculative issues. “I think there might have been some moisture in the basement once” creates negotiating ammunition for a buyer where none was warranted. Stick to what you actually know.

Have receipts and warranties organized. A binder with HVAC service records, roof warranty, recent repair receipts, and major appliance manuals signals a well-maintained home.

What’s Worth Doing vs. Disclosing

Not everything needs to be fixed before listing. Some judgment calls:

Fix it:

Anything under $500 that creates a “deferred maintenance” impression
All safety items (GFCIs, smoke/CO detectors, electrical hazards, railing stability)
Cosmetic issues that affect first impressions (caulk, paint touch-up, fascia)
Any active leak or visible water damage

Disclose it (and price accordingly):

Major systems near end of life (15+ year HVAC, 10+ year water heater, 20+ year roof)
Known foundation history that’s been properly addressed
Major upgrades the buyer would prefer to choose themselves (kitchen remodel, full basement finish)

The general rule: fix the things that look like neglect; disclose the things that are simply age. Buyers can plan for age. They can’t unsee neglect.

Two Weekends, Done Right

Here’s how I’d actually schedule this for a typical 3-bed/2-bath home in the St. Louis metro:

Weekend 1 (Exterior + Mechanicals)

Saturday: Walk perimeter, identify all caulk/trim/grading items. Order parts. Schedule HVAC tune-up and roof inspection. Tighten railings, address deck issues.
Sunday: Recaulk windows and exterior penetrations. Clean and inspect gutters. Adjust downspout extensions. Check exterior faucets and outdoor outlets.

Weekend 2 (Interior + Documentation)

Saturday: Test every outlet, replace covers, install GFCIs as needed. Test all smoke/CO detectors. Tighten loose toilets. Run all faucets and check under all sinks.
Sunday: Drywall patches and paint touch-up. Test all windows and doors. Basement cleanup and dehumidifier setup. Organize disclosure documents and warranties.

If you’ve got a bigger house or a longer list, three weekends. If you’re not handy or short on time, hire it out — most pre-listing punch lists run $1,500 to $4,000 in the St. Louis area depending on scope. Compared to typical post-inspection credit demands, it’s almost always money well spent.

We Do This Work Year-Round

We handle pre-listing punch lists across St. Charles County, St. Louis County, and the Metro East. The time to call is 4 to 6 weeks before you plan to list, which gives time for any deeper issues we find to be properly addressed and not rushed.

If you want a pre-listing walkthrough where we identify everything that’s likely to come up in inspection, contact us. We’ll spend an hour, take notes, and give you a prioritized punch list with rough costs. From there you can decide what to DIY, what to hire out, and what to simply disclose.

For new homeowners on the buying side, our move-in checklist covers the same ground from the opposite direction — what to inspect and address as soon as you take possession.

The Bottom Line

The houses that sell quickly and at full asking price aren’t the ones with luxury upgrades. They’re the ones where the basics are tight: caulk intact, gutters working, outlets safe, HVAC serviced, roof clean, basement dry.

A buyer touring two similar houses in your neighborhood is going to choose the one that feels cared for. The inspection report will confirm it. And the offer will reflect it.

Two weekends. A few hundred dollars in materials. A potentially much larger sale price. The math always works.

Get out there.

Selling Your Missouri Home This Summer? The Pre-Listing Punch List Inspectors Look For